The Revival of Speakeasies
CrushBrew Editorial · Cocktail Culture · 9 min read
Few things have given the American bar scene a new lease on life quite like the vintage-inspired speakeasy. Critics grumble about the high prices and the frills, but the staying power of the neo-speakeasy, with its hidden doors, vintage decor, and serious cocktails, makes it a force to be reckoned with. More than a decade into the revival, what once looked like a passing trend has settled in as a fixture of how Americans drink.
Key Takeaways
In This Article
What is a speakeasy, and where did they come from?
During Prohibition, speakeasies replaced the saloon and disguised themselves in every imaginable way to admit only trusted patrons. To cross the threshold, you had to give a password, a specific handshake, or a secret knock. Often run by organized crime, these underground bars served homemade brews, liquor, and simple cocktails, a small act of defiance against the federal ban.
Definition
Speakeasy
A speakeasy was an illicit bar during Prohibition, the 1920 to 1933 US ban on alcohol, that admitted trusted patrons through a password, knock, or handshake. The name likely comes from having to “speak easy,” or quietly, to gain entry. Today the word also describes a modern, legal cocktail bar that borrows that hidden, vintage feel.
When Prohibition ended in 1933, most speakeasies vanished with it. But in their short, illicit life they had become synonymous with indulgence, secrecy, and glamour, a mystique that would prove impossible to kill. Decades later, it would inspire a whole new wave of bars.
What happened to the original speakeasies?
A handful of the most iconic names kept going after repeal, but the end of the ban changed them for good, through new crowds, public exposure, or a change of address. Three New York legends show how the story usually ended.
Harlem’s Cotton Club, run by the bootlegger and gangster Owney Madden, was the city’s most famous club of the era, with a house band that included Duke Ellington and Cab Calloway. It was also segregated: Black performers entertained a whites-only crowd until the club finally admitted Black patrons in 1935. It closed for good in 1940. The glamorous Stork Club, founded by ex-bootlegger Sherman Billingsley and a magnet for movie stars and showgirls, hung on until 1965, after which it was demolished and its East 53rd Street site became the small Paley Park.
Chumley’s, the unmarked Greenwich Village literary speakeasy that opened in 1922 and drew writers from Edna St. Vincent Millay to Steinbeck, proved the most resilient. A dining-room chimney collapsed in 2007 and closed it; after a long renovation it reopened in 2016, only to shut permanently in 2020. For the survivors, the novelty was always going to fade, and they became more tourist attraction than secret. Capturing that lost sense of the taboo is exactly what the modern revival set out to do.
What is a neo-speakeasy?
Perfectly legal and regulated, the neo-speakeasy is known for its vintage decor, unassuming location, complex cocktails, and strict door policy. The point is the feeling: mystery, a touch of deception, and the sense of being part of a select insider’s club. Get the recipe right and the experience feels authentic, even when everyone knows the bar is there.
Definition
Mixology
Mixology is the craft of making complex, carefully balanced cocktails, with attention to technique, fresh ingredients, and presentation. The modern speakeasy movement was central to its rise, turning bartending into a serious, respected craft and reviving long-forgotten Prohibition-era drinks.
Much of the credit for the form goes to PDT in New York, which opened in 2007 and is often cited as the bar that launched the modern speakeasy trend.
Where are the best modern speakeasies?
In New York, three hideaways set the standard. PDT, short for Please Don’t Tell, is entered through a vintage phone booth inside the East Village hot dog shop Crif Dogs; dial the phone and a wall swings open onto a tiny, taxidermy-lined bar. Employees Only hides behind a working fortune-teller’s storefront and is famous for its white-coated bartenders and its Mata Hari, a cognac-based cocktail with chai-infused vermouth and pomegranate. And La Esquina conceals a subterranean brasserie beneath a corner taqueria, reached through an unmarked door.
“Sort of like Studio 54 with chipotle instead of cocaine.”
— Frank Bruni, then New York Times restaurant critic, on La Esquina
The theme runs nationwide. In Chicago, Room 13 sits behind a gate beside the Old Chicago Inn, with a dress code and, these days, access mostly for members and inn guests. In San Francisco, Bourbon & Branch is an unmarked, password-protected room in the Tenderloin, and tucked inside it is the reservation-only Wilson & Wilson, a detective-themed bar within a bar.
Not all of them make you work for it. In Los Angeles, La Descarga has a sign out front and no password, but what it lacks in concealment it makes up in atmosphere. Created by mixologists Steve Livigni and Pablo Moix, the candlelit, 1950s-Cuba lounge on Western Avenue is a go-to for Latin music, salsa dancing, and burlesque, with a cigar room and a deep rum list running to bottles like Guatemala’s Ron Zacapa.
Definition
Falernum
Falernum is a spiced Caribbean syrup or low-proof liqueur flavored with lime, almond, ginger, and clove. It is a workhorse of rum mixology, adding sweetness and spice to tiki and Cuban-style drinks, the kind of ingredient that fills the shelves of a rum-focused bar like La Descarga.
A Few Modern Speakeasies and How You Get In
| Bar | City | How You Get In |
|---|---|---|
| PDT | New York | Through a phone booth inside Crif Dogs hot dog shop. |
| Employees Only | New York | Behind a working psychic/fortune-teller storefront. |
| La Esquina | New York | A hidden brasserie beneath a corner taqueria. |
| Room 13 | Chicago | A gate by the Old Chicago Inn; mostly members and inn guests. |
| Wilson & Wilson | San Francisco | Reservation-only, hidden inside Bourbon & Branch. |
| La Descarga | Los Angeles | A sign out front, no password, but a dress code. |
Are neo-speakeasies here to stay?
Today’s underground hot spots are not the originals. They draw a different crowd, often serve far more than booze, and can be as much about seeing and being seen as about a quiet illicit drink. Calling them inauthentic because they are more civilized, more expensive, and less secret, though, rather misses the point.
These bars actively popularized cocktail culture for a younger generation and were instrumental in the rise of the mixology movement. More than a decade in, with new ones still opening even as some of the originals close, the neo-speakeasy looks less like a fad and more like a permanent part of how America drinks. For all the eye-rolling, the hype is real, and the form has what it takes to stay.
Frequently Asked Questions About Speakeasies
🍸 The Neo-Speakeasy at a Glance
Key facts about the speakeasy, past and present.
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Origin | Illicit bars during US Prohibition (1920–1933), entered by password or knock. |
| Modern revival | Neo-speakeasies: legal bars recreating the hidden, vintage feel. |
| Hallmarks | Hidden entrances, vintage decor, craft cocktails, strict door policies. |
| New York | PDT, Employees Only, La Esquina. |
| Chicago | Room 13, at the Old Chicago Inn. |
| San Francisco | Bourbon & Branch and its hidden Wilson & Wilson. |
| Los Angeles | La Descarga, a Cuban rum and cigar lounge. |
| The debate | Critics call them pricey and inauthentic; fans credit them with reviving cocktail culture. |
| Verdict | More than a decade in, the neo-speakeasy looks here to stay. |